Whatever you do, just keep going forward. That was the advice I received from an American friend living in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, on how to cross the road amongst the mayhem of motorbikes and bicycles.
Leigh had told me this when we met in Cambodia but it was only now that I had to recall her advice as I timidly waited on the footpath, aware that if I didn't take that first brave step I would never get to the other side.
I arrived in the former capital of what was South Vietnam just as peak-hour traffic was gaining momentum. The revving and horn tooting of thousands of motorbikes was deafening. No one paid attention to the white stripes that in Australia symbolised pedestrian crossings and traffic lights were so far and few between that it was impossible to rely on a break in the traffic to be able to safely cross.
There was only one option.
I took a deep breath and plunged into the mad chaos of bikes and watched as they swerved around me, not phased by the obstacle that I created. When I reached the middle of the road, I turned my head and began to negotiate the traffic coming in the other direction. Eventually, I was standing on the other side of the road - dreading the return to my hotel.
Ho Chi Minh City was the start of my three-week itinerary in Vietnam. Fortunately, from here it has been much quieter and safer!
The largest city in Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City, formally called Saigon until the Communists in the north won the Vietnam War in 1975, is much more cosmopolitan than the rest of the country, with swanky hotels and nightclubs and even expensive brands such as Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci have stores there.
The people are dressed in the latest fashion, compared to the traditional silk dress and pants that many in the country wear, a large majority speak at least some English (usually with an American or English accent) and unlike in Cambodia, the nightspots are full of locals rather than only tourists.
It was certainly not the Vietnam I was expecting (but the typical Vietnam, with pointy hats and rice paddy fields was to come) and my few days there became a tiring mix of history by day and partying by night.
The city has a great selection of museums. I visited as many as possible and particularly liked the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City and the War Remnants Museum. The first has an entire floor worth of displays on the American War, as the Vietnamese refer to it, and the latter is entirely dedicated to it.
It was obvious as I read the descriptions in the museums that they had been established by the Communist regime.
The walls were laden with photos of dead and injured civilians who, according to the captions, had been the victim of American bombs or napalm attacks. There were no such photos of victims of the North's own attacks.
Scenes from the many anti-war protests around the world were accompanied by blurbs that insisted the entire world was against the Americans in Vietnam. Phrases such as "US aggressors", "US imperialists" and "liberating the south" were common and the south regime led by Ngo Dinh Diem was always referred to as the "Diem puppet regime", referring to the American control.
It was haunting to see the stony faces of young boys and women holding powerful weapons ready to fight for the Viet Cong. Any reference to a Viet Cong soldier was always as a "hero", despite much of the literature I've read stating they were often forced into the army. Whether they wanted to be there or not, it was sad.
The Cu Chi tunnels, about one hour from the city, are also interesting, though they are very touristy these days. I combined a tour here with the colourful Cao Dai temple. This religion is specific to the south of Vietnam and is one of the most bizarre religions I have learned about, with a fusion of Hinduism, Buddhism, Taoism and Catholicism.
I took another day trip to the Mekong Delta area. It was a great day out but the towns we visited seemed to be set up solely for the purpose of tourism; not an authentic experience at all. However, I did conquer a fear of holding a snake - a python to be exact.
Back in HCMC, I also visited the Royal Palace, which, despite its vast green grounds, was one of the least striking palaces I have ever seen. It reminded me more of a hospital with its bland white walls, decades-old floor tiles and staircases more like fire escapes.
However, a couple of rooms did have exquisite furniture and beautiful paintings and it was cool to stand on the balcony where the Communists declared the fall of Saigon.
Covered in lights, the palace is apparently better looking at night, but I never made it back.
The nightlife in Ho Chi Minh City is just as bright, and unlike most other Asian cities, the locals join in with the tourists.
I spent my last evening in this beating city at the top of The Sheraton hotel sipping a happy hour cocktail and watching the lights gradually turn on across the city.
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