THE TRIP Chile and Argentina

THE ITINERARY We arrived in Santiago on a Saturday for two nights on our way to Argentina and stayed at the boutique Orly Hotel, a convenient taxi ride from Bellavista with its colourful streets, bars, restaurants and, happily, an ATM.

After seafood tapas and a Chilean beer, we visited La Chascona, the house of the celebrated Chilean poet-diplomat, Pablo Neruda, then retired for our first, of many, siestas. Dinner, much later, was at Aqui Esta Coco, one of Santiago's most famous seafood restaurants.

Sunday was morning markets, Bella Artes, jewellery shopping, lunch at Mulato, a restaurant specialising in central Chilean cuisine, another siesta, more local seafood and wine for dinner.

By Day 2 we had the balance right – history, art, contemporary culture, siesta, fabulous local food and wine.

On day 3 we crossed the breathtaking Andes Ranges to Mendoza, for two days of guided visits to historic and ultra-modern vineyards, multiple wine tastings and degustations. Then on to Cordoba, the university city founded by Jesuit priests in the 16th Century for a feast of religious art, contemporary sculpture, antique browsing, people gazing in street cafes and shy attempts at ordering in Spanish.

Now for the road less travelled, the one leading to Santa Rosa de Calamuchita for a four day retreat into the rural heartland of Argentina. We ate authentic asado (barbecue) by pristine rivers and lakes, scenic walks, yoga, a cooking class and language lessons with 'Spanish and beyond'.

Then it was on to Buenos Aires for days of high art, graffiti murals, bookshops, opera, tango, grand boulevards, Ricoleta cemetery and the tomb of Eva Peron, a walking tour from La Boca to Plaza de Mayo and the best ice cream in the world, 'dulce de leche'.

BEST BITS Calamuchita River, Santa Rosa and Tetro Colon, the Buenos Aires opera house.

WORST BIT Bank queues

BEST TIP Take some online language lessons before you leave home and win some friends on your travels.